I am BRAND NEW to this PLEASE HELP!!!

[MarksPaint]

Okay, first of all please keep in mind that I have only been doing this for 6 months. I have NEVER been to school for it and in fact I am only 19. I was just kind of thrown into it and actually had to figure EVERYTHING out by myself. I have known enough to survive until now...
I have a Roland SP-540V printer. I use Adobe Photoshop 7.0 with it (only because its the only program I am VERY familier with) I also have Flexi-Sign with it but the only time I ever use it is to do a contour cut on something.
We are a TINY store that doesn't do a lot of business. I had a costumor come in the other day asking for graphics on the side of her van. We picked one out of our Aroura (sp?) program and took it into Adobe and altered it a little. After that I transfered it over to flexi-sign to put a contour cut on it and printed it out of the Roland program. After all that the colors turned out COMPLETELY different than what they were suppose to be! There are really only 2 dominant colors: drk red and a tan color. When I got the red to print right the tan turned almost green. When the tan was right the red was brown! I am SO confused and tried to just change all the shades in Adobe but still NEVER got the right colors!!!! It made me wanna cry . I THINK it has to do with the color mode like RGB or CMYK or something like that but I am not real familier with that either.


Okay now that's my FIRST problem...
I print a lot on clear vinyl. For ex. to put on real estate signs and magnetics... I guess I don't exactly know what media to set it on in my printing program. Most of the time after I print it the ink looks watery in some places.... Turns out foggy and not real clear. It ruins the whole sign more or less.. Can any one tell me what media to set it on??????????

Thank you SOOOO much!

Jessica
Marks Paint Supply & Vinyl Signs

[gtjet]

Actually doing the aurora graphics in Flexi should be a good way to go as it will stay in vector format. Download a pantone chart from this site, print it out on the media you will be using and then you will have an idea of what the colors on the screen you are seeing will look like printed.

What media are you using Roland CCVP? In Flexi when you are ready to rip and print under the advance tab choose ESM CCVP for your icc profile, make sure everything matches, your media should be CCVP, your profile ESM CCVP, under linearization it shoud be CCVP, you get the idea. Also I would not be using so much clear, I would use ESM GCVP by Roland or Oracals 3651G or which is a good intermediate white. If you are using non roland media then you will have to download and install the right profiles. For now maybe using the roland media may be wise til your comfortable, then you can reach out and try some other medias & profiles. This is just a little info, sounds like you will need a lot more help. If your dealer is close he may be able to help you more one on one too. Best wish, hope every thing turns out well for you.

[gtjet]

Oh, I made a couple assumptions too.
1. that you are printing with white as an under base
or
2. that you are appling the prints to a white substrate, like a white aluminum panel. Without the white, the colors on the clear will not look right.
3. you should try using the regular white vinyls like the esm gcvp or oracal 3651 although for now I would stick with roland as all the profiles should have been on your setup cd and there ready for you to choose and use.

[MarksPaint]

I do use the orcal 3651 also for car graphics and what not BUT It's too hard for me to lay down on the real estate signs with it being so dang thin and all...

[eye4clr]

Try using a thicker, say 3.2 or more mil vinyl. You'll be much happier. Also, try using a white vinyl instead of clear. AGain, your life will get easier.

Some basics...have the media selection in your RIP match exactly to the material you're using. As a plan B, you can choose something close. According to what you've said so far, that would be the biggest thing you could do to improve the situation.

After this job goes away (one way or another) spend some time 'playing' and experimenting. It's much better to learn without the pressure of a job over your head.

[Signguy]

Originally Posted by MarksPaint

I do use the orcal 3651 also for car graphics and what not BUT It's too hard for me to lay down on the real estate signs with it being so dang thin and all...

Film laminate (210) the print then install. It will handle better and be more durable. Of course, charge more.

[gtjet]

a big squeegee may help you on those real estate signs, it has sure helped us.
Then like eye for color says, when the pressure of a job is off, play around printing some fun stuff and applying it.
On signs 101 there are some good video tutorials on appling vinyl, etc, you should definitely check that site out, it is awesome and the people there are very helpful and knowledgeable.
Try to hook up with someone in your area, off of this site or the signs 101 site who is experienced and willing to help you.
Again best wishes.

[airal20]

Originally Posted by MarksPaint

I have NEVER been to school for it and in fact I am only 19. I was just kind of thrown into it and actually had to figure EVERYTHING out by myself. I have known enough to survive until now...
I have a Roland SP-540V printer.

Your not alone. I have been in this situation too. It gets better and sooner or later you will look back and laugh at yourself about getting all worked up and nervous for what is now an everyday occurance. Take it easy and learn all you can on this site. Ask many questions.

[gene@abcsignshop.com]

My installer can get unlaminated/no premask 3651/3640/3621 onto coro
perfectly everytime. If it is still hot out of the printer (I use Triangle MLD ink
so they they are reeeal soft) it is a little dicey- but she can do it 90% of the
time with no problem.

I would like to point out that I, myself cannot do that- but with practice it
is very doable.